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Voici here are two versions of a day in Auvers-sur-Oise. Mine and
the one suggested by Château d'Auvers
with times to do certain things.
If you would like to take a day trip outside of Paris, I can highly
suggest a voyage to Auvers-sur-Oise. This village known for Vincent van
Gogh's bedroom brings the whole Impressionist movement into perspective
with a visit to its château.
Château Auvers-sur-Oise will be a surprise if you go expecting to see
old chimneys and gilded mirrors - they are not there. Our lunch place
was so very local that I wonder when their last tourist ate there
(before us). You might have to keep your camera handy because every turn
in the back streets of the town provides a "Kodak moment".
As with other villages close to Paris, the train is your best bet. I
speak from the experience of traveling there in a car, in the traffic,
trying to find the route signs, not having time to read and relax, etc.
February is easily considered very low season -- only a few tourist
places are open in Auvers-sur-Oise; but that makes it even better! Fewer
choices!
Having tried to make a reservation for lunch at the Auberge Ravoux noted
for its famous tenant, van Gogh, we walked along the narrow main drag
where we had spotted some restaurants.
The first one we came to near the mairie (city hall) was Café de
la Paix advertising their upcoming Saint Patrick's Day Celtic affair
with Irish stew. They had so many menus posted outside, we soon found
out why. You have your choice of the bar, the brasserie or the
restaurant. If that is not enough, they run the crêperie next door and
the hotel above your head.
Lunch
The brasserie was an obvious
choice for a light lunch since we had dinner plans later that evening.
It was still a three-course menu with choices for 16 euros.
Entering Café de la Paix, my eyes
went first to the bar's colorful ceramic beer taps and at the same time
I was greeted by a pleasant barman.
Passing the small bar tables we sat
in the brasserie area separated from the restaurant to the rear by a
window of smoked, cut glass. The tables in the restaurant were set with
linens and spaced neatly in front of a curtained stage with a piano
ready for entertainment.
After lunch, we stopped by the
Auberge Ravoux to peak in the windows. They are closed in February and
reopen March 1st.
Sightseeing
We worked our way up the little street to the tourist
office and followed the sign for the Musée de l'Absinthe. Having tried
absinthe as an aperitif at the restaurant l'Ourcine in Paris, I had to see the museum devoted
to this ritual with the bad reputation. Oops! the museum is closed
during the winter.
Not to be deterred and wondering what
that tower was near the museum and wondering where that narrow, winding
road led to -- absent
of any signage -- we were delighted to find the
Château d'Auvers.
You may think you understand Impressionism from having visited the Musée
d'Orsay in Paris.
Pardonnez-moi, but the château's exhibition uses video and infrared
audio guides to pull the movement into better perspective than just
admiring paintings.
The exhibition correlates the introduction of the
steam train, Haussmann's Paris renovation, the upheaval of the residents
of Paris, the influx of workers to rebuild Paris, the new dance and
music halls, bathing suits, etc. to about 600 impressionist paintings
shown on video as well as actual interior decorations, photos,
illustrations, clothing of the era, etc. (You can purchase a combination
round-trip train ticket that includes admission to the château for 14,60
euros.) If the infrared audio
guide goes faster than you want to go -- the audio guide will tell you
to stay with the group! -- stay where you are and it will start again
and catch up to you.
We
were in town about 5 hours (11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.) and still left many
stones unturned, so we have to go back.
Getting there
The brochure for
Château d'Auvers suggests
the "Forfait Loisir Francilien" ticket that includes the
return journey, admission and your audio guide to the Château Auvers-sur-Oise.
It is on sale for 14,60 euros in all railway
stations in Paris. You will take the train from Paris Gare du Nord to
Valmondois.
Once in Valmondois take the direction
Auvers-sur-Oise (3 minute ride).
If you take the train from Saint-Lazare go
in the direction of Pontoise. Once at Pontoise, change in the direction
of Auvers-sur-Oise.
The train trip between Paris and Auvers-sur-Oise
only
takes about one hour and three minutes. That's about what take me to get
from one end of Paris to another.
The trains between Paris and Auvers-sur-Oise and
Paris run every 30 minutes.
For more details ask at the train station
ticket offices.
If you do not plan to visit the Château, the
round-trip train costs under 10 euros.
Round trip train fare from
either Gare Saint Lazare or Gare du Nord is under 10 euros.
When searching for an itinerary to and from Auvers-sur-Oise on the
Transilien/SNCF website, choose "Auvers-sur-Oise (95)" (95 is the number
of the department; Paris is 75 -- you will notice these numbers on
license plates.)
Maps and brochures
If you are in Paris when you decide to go,
be sure to visit a Paris Tourist
Office and pick up a couple of maps (in English and French):
"In the footsteps of the artists of light"
painters - Paris Ile-de-France (Sur les traces des artistes de la
lumière - peintres)
Jardins & Châteaux - 24 masterpieces of
landscape design (24 chefs-d'œuvre de l'art paysager)
Découvrez le "best of" de l'Île-de-France -
the Transilien sightseeing map.
For additional area information, visit the
tourist information website for
Val d'Oise.
Note: Some friends did the trip but used the Gare
d'Austerlitz. The trip took one hour and 15 minutes. The exchanges were
easy to get to Auvers-sur-Oise, but they will try the train next time
instead of the RER.
Planning your visit using ideas from the
Château d'Auvers:
Go into their site and click on "Planning your visit"
then "Ideas for day-tours". Click on the link: Download the complete
description of all these days-tours.
In this document you will find Ideas for your day tour of
things you should not miss along with themes: Discovery of
Auvers-sur-Oise, On the footsteps of Van Gogh and Monet and "Artist
colors and mother-of-pearl play reflecting".
They even suggest your lunch time.
It's a great visit. |
May 2008
