|
Turn
right on rue Jean Ferrandi and we are heading for the chapel, Notre-Dame des
Anges (Our Lady of the Angels) -- closed during July and August.
When
you reach rue de Vaugirard, turn right (a grocery store - G20 is across the
street) and walk to 102bis.
Hidden behind a regular façade is a miniature Notre-Dame complete with rose
windows.
Go
through the large brown doors and up a few steps into the chapel.
In
addition to admiring the stained glass windows, take a careful look at the
Virgin on the altar surrounded by angels holding musical instruments.
When I first saw this statue, it was covered in soot. It was not until I
attended a mass in the crypt next door that I learned during a sermon on angels
that they were holding musical instruments. Hopefully, the light is turned on so
you can admire this unusual presentation, too.
History and info
about the chapel Notre-Dame des Anges
The
written visit is provided in French, my abridged English translation follows:
Notre-Dame
des Anges is a remarkable example of 12th c. neo-gothic architecure, an
extremely popular style during the Second Empire (1852-1870), designed
by the religious architect Father Gally.
The
architecture
The
street façade is not particularly interesting architecturally. The
vault rises 17 metres/50 feet, the cylindrical columns are crowned in leaves. One
can appreciate the quality of the architecture and the care for detail,
especially on the columns.
On
the capitals of the altar notice the detail of the strange figures among
the leaves making faces. Look very closely; they are not easy to see at
first.
The
windows
The
interior is particularly remarkable with its series of story-telling windows.
The 37 stained glass windows, two of them rose windows on each side of
the transept are the work of a known master, Joseph Vigné of Bordeaux.
They
form a rare, homogeneous grouping dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Meyer
of the Institute of Christian Arts, Munich, sculpted the statuary representing
the Virgin surrounded by angelic musicians in 1866. To the right of the
transept is a Christ figure in wood from the 16th c.
History
The
chapel was constructed between 1864 and 1866 for the community of Marists
(priests devoted to the Virgin Mary).
In
1843, the new congregation of Marists established their Mission for the
South Seas. The 12 priests lived at 5 rue de Montparnasse and worked with
their mission and other ministerial duties.
In
1863 the city of Paris decided to construct the parish church, Notre-Dame-des-Champs
right where they lived. They bought the Hôtel de Martignac and its
gardens and constructed the building at 104 and the chapel, Notre-Dame-des-Anges.
During
the next 40 years the chapel experienced various difficult periods (the
state had been victimizing the religions since the revolution and it this
history continued until 1908).
In
1871 during the Prussian siege of Paris, two canon balls destroyed the windows of
the nave, and landed in the crypt. In 1880 the priests were driven away
by the police exercising the judicial orders against the religious. The
chapel remained closed; and following the law of 1901, the chapel was put
under lock and key in 1903. The facility was used as a conference hall
from 1906 before being returned to the religious in 1908….
Note
Exit,
turn right and enter 104 rue de Vaugirard. (Take a moment to cross the street
and see how hidden the chapel is behind the façade.)
Walk down the hallway,
enter the next door (ouvre-porte - push the button) and pass through an atrium
style sitting room. To the right is the crypt; straight through and up a couple
of steps through the hall takes you to the garden.
A modern French Mass is held in
the modern designed crypt (no sarcophagus or cobwebs) on Monday,
Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 1210.
Le 104 rue de
Vaugirard
next
door to the chapel (closed July and August)
The
priests’ residence housed the activities of the Montalembert Circle that
was creataed in 1895 in order to give Parisian students a religious and
apostolic education. In 1898, Father Plazenet founded a residence for
those arriving in Paris from regions outside the city. This annex proved
so successful that it had to be moved to no.104. The members of the Student
Union were talented in many disciplines: Catholic teachers, social groups
led by Robert Garric aided their militant
ideas.
Little
by little these privileged young people became so content with their working
condition that it was to the detriment of their spiritual, philosophical
and social education.
Facing
this reversal of priorities and economic difficulties, the Foyer closed
in 1981. But the spirit of no. 104 through its friendliness and influence,
profoundly marked past residents such as François Mauriac (Nobel Prize
1952, writer), François
Mitterrand (president), Edouard Balladur (prime minister).
Today
the building houses a cultural center run by the Maristes priests.
Picnic spot
They have a pleasant garden in the back that you are welcome to enjoy.
One day when I was in the garden, people were walking by and disappearing. I
felt like Alice in Wonderland and everyone was disappearing underground.
Actually, I found out that the "disparus" live in the building behind the garden wall and they were taking
a shortcut through the shed in the back of the garden. Mystery solved.
Leave the cultural center and turn
left and continue rue de Vaugirard, passing
rue Jean Ferrandi.
At
the 1st
street on your left is rue l’abbé Grégoire, a very quiet street
with hotels, small businesses and apartment buildings. At the corner of Abbé
Grégoire and Cherche-Midi is the house where Dr. Lænnec lived between 1825 and
1826.
Turn left on rue Saint-Placide. This places you on the outlet mall street for
clothes and shoes. Some of the stores are at regular prices. Let shopping
experience and instinct be your guide.
Chocolate shop -
Côte
de France, 52, rue Saint-Placide
Note for your curiosity
If it
is a weekday, push the button above the number pad/digicode and enter to see the
interior courtyards or entrance halls of most buildings.
When
you reach the corner of Saint-Placide and Cherche-Midi you will notice
a rooster on the roof of the house with the sundial - Maison de Tambour (1651).
Although the sundial appears to fit
in with the age of the house, it was placed there in 1982.
Note
This
is a summary of the information that is behind the wood frame windows of the
building:
On the 5th of May 1651, the building at 28, rue Saint Placide
and 56 rue du Cherche-Midi belonged to the Abbey of Saint German des Prés.
At the sound of the bell, the abbey assembled their group as usual, this
time to sell the house to Nicolas Bondin (notary of the famous d’Artagnan
and the king of the Chatelet of Paris.
The articles in the window were found during the excavation of the
interior wells that still exist. One well was for drain water and the
other was to store fresh water.
In 1654, the windows of this house opened onto the countryside and the
Mont de Parnesse. This portion of rue Saint Placide was a garden pathway
until the Hausmannien period of development after 1850.
Be sure to take a peek through the
windows of the pharmacy - the wood!
Continue on Saint-Placide and
walk past some more shoe stores and clothing stores.
At
22, rue Saint-Placide is a three star hotel
Hôtel Sèvres Saint Germain
that has a “charming and warm
atmosphere of an 18th century house with wood beam ceilings….”
(Details under Hotels.)
You
are now heading toward rue de Sèvres and the department store, le Bon Marché,
the chapel of the Miraculous Medal, and then through a garden to a mission and
its museum.
Cross
rue de Sèvres and notice that rue Saint Placide becomes rue du Bac
in the 7th arrondissement.
Break spot/tea
rooms
The
gourmet grocery store of Bon Marché is on the left. Upstairs is a nice little
tearoom, open between 150 and 1800. The antique dealers (Galerie des Antiquaires
- 0930-1900 except Sunday) are on the same floor.
Tearooms and brasseries are nice if you have missed lunch or just want a
sandwich, salad or a break.
At
140, rue du Bac (just past Bon Marché’s grocery) is the Chapelle Notre-Dame de
la Médaille Miraculeuse (Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal). If the
doors are closed, you will recognize the church by the line of people waiting
outside to enter. This has to be the busiest church in Paris.
The
chapel is open 0745 to 1300 (on Sundays at 0720), 1430 to 1900; Tuesdays all day
between 0745 to 1900. Flyers available at the reception with times of Masses and
other services.
On
each side of the altar are the caskets of Saint Louise de Marillac to the left
and that of Saint Catherine Labouré. The latter received a visit of the Virgin
Mary in 1830. I’m not sure if these are actual bodies or wax effigies.
Notre-Dame de
la Médaille Miraculeuse
140
rue du Bac
An
imperial decree of March 25, 1813 gave this house of Chatillon to the Sisters
of Charitv. Louise de Marillac, inspired by Saint Vincent de Paul, founded
the Sisters of Charity during the 17th century.
In
1830 the Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré and thus began
a widespread devotion that continues to the present at the Chapel of Our
Lady of the Miraculous Medal. Over the course of a century, the chapel
was enlarged several times after these first appearances. A. Richardière
renovated the chapel to its present form in 1930. The coffin with the relics
of Catherine Labouré was placed in the chapel at the foot of Mary’s
statue sculpted by Maxime Real del Sarte.
Turn
left on rue du Bac and walk past the religious gift shop, Stella Maris.
This
little area abounds in small restaurants, brasseries and cafés along rue du Bac
and around the the next corner (see restaurant ideas in the 7th arrondissement).
At
the corner of rue du Bac and rue de Babylone, cross the street to Les Missions Étrangeres de Paris (The Society of Foreign Missions). The
museum of martyrs is open Monday-Friday 0900-1215/1330-1900.
Enter through the librarie/bookstore
on the corner or through the large green doors at 122 rue du Bac. Cross the
small courtyard and enter below the chapel stairs. (By the way, l'Hôtel des
Missions Étrangères is next door to where Chateaubriand died on July 4th 1848.)
"The
paintings are the work of Vietnamese painters who were contemporaries of the
martyrs and witnessed their ordeals." They were the "reporters and photographers
of their time".
Inside the drawers are mementos such as photos, letters, clothing, ponytails,
etc. Originally, all of these items were housed in a small room across the
courtyard which was considered in the eyes of the seminary as the smallest
one-room museum in the world. It was so small, that a guide box spoke to you in
your chosen language and a note over the light switch reminded you to turn out
the light when you left.
In existence for over 150
years, this museum portrays the violent deaths of Christian missionaries in
Vietnam, China, Korea and Japan.
The first mission
building was constructed in 1663, and was renovated and enlarged in 1675, 1732
and 1869. www.mepasie.org
One more
curiosity
Now
there is only one more curiously hidden church to show you.
Return to rue de Sèvres (past the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal) and turn left
Walk
past the Bon Marché and along the park
to the Eglise St. Ignace, 33 rue de Sèvres.
Across from Parc Boucicaut is a terribly obvious black/brown “modern” apartment
building among the traditional.
Go
through the arcade and at the back, is a fascinating Jesuit church from 1855
that blends 1970s styling with neo-Gothic.
The
arcades on the side aisles have arches that separate three-wall chapels, each
with their own ornate, wooden confessional.
Each
chapel commemorates a saint with their life story posted on the side of the
confessional. The beautiful display of paintings, stories, decorations and
altars and gives the feeling of each being a church on its own.
One
of the separate chapels was converted into a modern version of a confessional
with its paneling and aluminum framing – interesting contrast.
Since
the start of renovation in May 2000, the seating and altar arrangement is now in
the form of a theatre in the round.
You are now on your own to
shop until you drop or go back and pray for euros from heaven….
Please send me your
comments.
e-mail Colleen |
May 2008