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Tasting croissants in Paris - la dégustation
Buying a croissant is easy. Trying to find the perfect croissant is, however, difficult and enjoying the perfect croissant requires guidelines. Did you ever imagine that a simple pastry would involve such complications? You may think that buying a croissant at the bakery (boulangerie) is a simple matter of point to it and pay. On the contrary, it should be an emotional experience. This is a pastry that I never considered buying before, unless it had almond paste or cream inside. This humble pastry has a mode de vie of its own: a history, a method of enjoyment and a carefully orchestrated beginning. When made properly, the croissant bursts forth with noisy, tasty life! A Sunday article in “le Figaro magazine” referred to the nine pillars of pleasure (volupté) for appreciating a croissant. The author of the article asked two well-known Parisian pâtissiers, Pierre Hermé and Laurent Duchêne to “analyze what makes the heart of the croissant beat” (see the list below). It was armed with this list that I decided to cast carbohydrates to the wind, spending 0,85 to 0,90 euro cents at five different boulangeries. Traveling between my neighborhood in the 11th and across town, I set out to discover which croissants met the nine-pillar challenge. The first to meet all of the criteria was close to home at “au Levain du Marais” on boulevard Beaumarchais.
My husband and I sat in our living room (salon) sharing thoughts on this simple pastry over a morning coffee. This event resembled a wine or cheese tasting with running commentary. The croissant left no grease on our hands. It burst with crunchiness all the way to the last chew. The smell, taste, softness of the interior and crumbs were right on target.
If I refer to the croissant as a simple pastry, it is not to denigrate its preparation.
The baking process The homemade dough is prepared the night before. The next day it is worked and turned and flattened with butter between the folds several times before its overnight rest and rising. The rolled and curved crescents are then set out on parchment paper awaiting their 15 minutes of baking on the day of your purchase.
Opinion on the life cycle of the croissant varies from boulanger to boulanger – five to six hours to all day. The type of flour and other ingredients vary according to the baker’s choice. Your satisfaction is the final pleasure.
The croissants of Messieurs Solquè, Pouget and Voiriot came under scrutiny. They were equally good but had to be tested while walking on the street and in my kitchen instead of leisurely over a coffee.
All of these croissants had a nuance – the color, the shape, an ever so slight variation in taste – but all crunched to the last chew.
The only disappointing croissant came from the bakery on our street corner. It was so buttery that my paper towel was soaked; the center was heavy and doughy and only the top was crunchy.
According to Mr. Pouget, this was due to insufficient rising. He said his wife would have thrown it away. It’s a matter of preference. Mme. Pouget doesn’t like an excessive amount of butter on her hands. And neither do I. I pitched it after a few bites.
History Imagine a shopping list having historical significance. It helps if one is to dispel a legend.
On June 18, 1549, the bishop of Paris’ home shopper was given a shopping list that included 40 croissants (quarante gasteau en croissans). The bishop was giving a party for the queen of France, (mother of three French kings, and noted instigator of a famous massacre) Catherine de Médici. This banquet is noted in the inventory of French cuisine’s history² published by the National Center for Culinary Arts (Centre national des arts culinaires).
This written evidence beats the legend of the Turks’ laying siege to Vienna in 1683.
Further information about the croissant appears in 1807 when a correspondent for the French publication of Grimod de la Reynière³. The author was taking an inventory of Parisian delicacies and pastries eaten with the fingers and was amazed that the small coffee pastries (petits pain à café) were disappearing.
Later in 1875, the society was once again a buzz with the issue of croissants pour café.
The nine pillars of volupté Has the croissant a season? Should it cry out in pain as you crunch it? Is butter on your fingers a sign of a good or a bad croissant?
The nine pillars of pleasure from "le Figaro magazine" are:
When ordering, ask for the croissant made with butter (croissant au buerre). And although winter might be the croissants’ most popular season, they are available all year round.
Tested and liked
Au Levain du Marais Closed Tuesday and Wednesday and 32 rue Turenne, 3rd arrondissement Closed Sunday and Monday
Bruno Solquès (individual, unique interior) 243 rue Saint-Jacques 5th arrondissement Closed Saturday and Sunday
L'Atelier des Saveurs Mr. Pouget (former 1st prize winner of « Prix de la Meilleure Baguette de Paris ») 94 Boulevard Auguste Blanqui 13th arrondissement Tuesday to Saturday 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Sunday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Sunday afternoon and Monday
M. Voiriot (organic baker) 61 rue de la Galcière, open 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. 13th arrondissement Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Others tested by le Figaro Christophe Michalak 25 avenue Montaigne 8th arrondissement
Grégory Desfoux 112 rue de Belleville (20th arrondissement) 48 rue de Tolbiac, 8th arrondissement 32 rue de Bourgogne, 7th arrondissement
References ¹ le Figaro magazine, cahier no. 3, samedi 26 février, Attitudes le moment du croissant -le croissant émietté – les neuf piliers de la volupté - Fol et François Simon avec Gilles Brochard.
² French cuisine’s history – Inventaire du patrimoine culinaire français (Centre national des arts culinaire)
³ Grimod de la Reynière (Alexandre Balthasar Laurent) French gastronome (one who appreciates the fine qualities of food) published a famous almanac between 1803 and 1812 (Almanach des gourmands). He is the originator of food publications (l’initiateur de la presse gastronomique).
Book on the subject Cherchez le pain : Guide des meillures boulangeries du Paris (editor: Pilon) by Steve Kaplan
Steps to a croissant with Mr. Pouget
The same dough is used for pain au chocolat
Mr. Pouget's pain au chocolat were excellent compared to au Levain's -- he uses 3 sticks of chocolate!! and the pastry was better.
pain au chocolat |
